Island Peak Climbing
Trip Duration
17 Days
Group Sizes
2-16 People
Transportation
by flight
Destination
Nepal
Max. Altitude
6,189m
Best Season
spring (April to June) And Autumn (September to November)
Activities
Difficulty
Difficult
Meals
Start & End Point
Kathmandu to Kathmandu
Accommodation
Reaching the 6000 m or above snow-covered Himalaya in Nepal may seem impossible to achieve, but it is not. We will make your dream of attaining the new heights a reality through our 17-day Island Peak climbing expedition set in the stunning eastern corner of Nepal.
Just 6165 meters high, the Island Peak climbing is not a star climbing expedition but it is perfect for climbers looking for their first Himalayan experience.
The Peak itself sits in the semi-alpine National Park of Everest in the Khumbu Valley overshadowed by the massive snowy and rocky imposing walls of Lhotse, Baruntse, and Nuptse.
And yet it too has its qualities. Its base camp at 5200 m alone is higher than the Mont Blanc- the highest peak in Europe at just 4810 m. Not to mention Kilimanjaro, the highest in Africa, exotic and gigantic, and yet just under six thousand.
This prestigious peak got its name in 1953, a title bestowed by the adventurous Eric Shipton. Leading a remarkable expedition with Alf Gregory, Charles Evans, Charles Wylie, Tenzing Norgay, and seven Sherpas, they achieved the remarkable success of conquering the peak in the same year.
Motivated by these iconic climbers, we have developed our Island Peak climbing itinerary to approach the summit from the southern ridge. This route is pretty easy and does not demand advanced mountaineering skills, which is why this southern route of Island peak climbing has become a must among adventurous travelers.
Standing atop of the Island summit, the giant panorama of Baruntse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu appear like a painting of a great artist.
However, our island peak climbing trip is not only about conquering towering summits; it is also about the welcoming smiles of the Sherpas, their pure-hearted spirit, and their remarkable courage.
It is a celebration of their captivating mountain villages and serene monasteries, the untouched splendor of Sagarmatha National Park, and the breathtaking deep gorges adorned with vibrant alpine meadows in full bloom. The journey is truly a treasure trove of memorable moments and infinite impressions.
Rated moderately challenging, Island Peak climbing necessitates adventurers to possess solid physical fitness and proficiency with jumar and rope techniques. Ultimately, this climbing expedition offers a chance for thrill-seekers to realize their dreams and enhance their mountaineering skills.
After you arrive in Kathmandu, you will spend a day acclimatizing and preparing for your trip. Then you will soar to Lukla and traverse Phakding, Namche, Tengboche, and Dingboche.
After traversing the iconic Everest trail, your journey will take you toward Chhukung, from where you will approach the Island Peak Base and High Camps in the upcoming days. On the next day, you will make your ascent to the summit before descending back to Chhukung.
From there, your journey home will retrace the steps you took earlier, completing the Island Peak climbing trip in a loop that leads you through Namche, Lukla, and finally back to Kathmandu.
A warm welcome awaits you upon your arrival in TIA after which you will be taken through the fragrant streets of the city to your hotel. After a rest, you can walk through the old Kathmandu and experience its classic mysticism.
Your morning begins with a warm welcome from our tour guide, who will arrange a brief meeting to discuss the Island Peak climbing details that we have designed for you.
He will also take a moment to review your equipment; if you are short on any items, he will assist you in finding them in Thamel. The remainder of the day will be dedicated to visiting the historical monuments of the city, including Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, and Boudhanath.
You will not get much sleep tonight so retire early for the evening.
Our morning begins with a drive to TIA and gliding through the sky towards Lukla. The soaring peaks of Kanchenjunga, Manaslu, and Everest will dominate the scene from our plane window.
Touching down at the small Lukla Airstrip, 6187 m Kongde Ri will emphasize its striking presence that follows us on our journey ahead. Our friendly guides and porters will manage our luggage while we eat our breakfast.
Now, we will set off on foot to Phakding which is mainly an acclimating walk in the high mountain air. The powerful Dudh Koshi River will roar alongside us as we approach the outskirts of Lukla Village.
Wandering through Chheplung and Chaurikharka, we will eventually arrive at Thadokoshi with Kususm Kangaru looming in the backdrop. The path now slopes downward, directing us to Ghat and further to Phakding.
Notice:
During peak air traffic periods, particularly in the autumn and spring seasons, flights heading to Lukla will be operating from Manthali Airstrip located in Ramechhap town. You will ride in a private vehicle to Ramechhap, where a 20-minute flight will carry you to Lukla.
After Phakding, Zam Phute, Toktok, and Benkar will guide us onward on our trail with Thamserku at the sight. We will continue up to Monjo where the official guards will inspect our permit so we can step into the iconic National Park of Everest.
We will now head towards Jorsalle cross the Dudh Koshi a couple of times and come to a fine rise, after which the Imja Khola and Bhote Kosi and run together.
Here, we will meet the Hilary suspension bridge looming high above the roaring rivers. It will take around half an hour or more to walk across this bridge which will open up the rising track leading us to the 3140 m high ridge known as Top Danda.
Now a sharp straight climb will end after we are at Namche Bazaar where the first view of Everest with Lhotse and Nuptse behind will emerge.
Our adaptation to the cool yet dry Khumbu air begins from today. After breakfast, we will go on towards the 3880 m Japanese-built Everest View Hotel. We will be climbing for around 400 m to spend time amidst the great mountains of Thamserku, Cholatse, Taboche, Ama Dablam, and Nuptse, with Everest and Lhotse.
After this precious moment, we will turn back to our cozy rooms in Namche.
After Namche, our track turns with a steady ascent alongside the shimmering Dudh Koshi River. As we continue, the path winds downward through a lush forest leading us to a quaint little bridge.
Crossing the sturdy steel bridge, we enter the breathtaking Imja Valley. The footway now gently rises toward Phungi Thanga (3260 m), which will continue rising for 2 more hours till we land at the ground of Tengboche Gompa.
In between Everest, Thamserku, Lhotse, and Kwangde, we will sleep in the warmth of the modest Sherpa lodge.
After Tengboche, our footpath will go down slowly through the fir and rhododendron jungle to Deboche. The stunning profile of Ama Dablam in the glistening sun is a magnificent sight to behold.
Now a gentle walk over the suspended metal bridge over Imja Khola will direct us along the rising trail towards Pangboche (3900 m). progressing further, the earthy brown terrain welcomes us. With Island Peak far ahead, we will move up to Shomare and then to Dingboche.
Our journey today is a brief yet beautiful one. After Dingboche, we will head east and follow the stream and the rugged moraines of the Lhotse and Imja glaciers.
In roughly two hours, we will reach Chhukung Village, where the spectacular peaks of Island, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam await our arrival. Later in the day, we can take a side trip to Chhukung Ri (5546 m) for about 3 to 4 hours.
We will go even deeper into the Imja valley towards Baruntse and Island Peak. We will take a southern track where the stony footpath climbs sharply to the east.
We will then climb alongside the towering walls of the Lhotse and Imja Glaciers, we will arrive at a broad valley that lies before the southwest face of the majestic Island summit.
We are at Island Peak Base Camp where we will find the best campsite, establish the tent, and spend the whole afternoon today for extra acclimatization in magnificent surroundings, to say the least.
We will prepare our climbing equipment (harness, rope, jumar, crampons, ice axe, etc). then we will engage in practicing mountaineering skills with our guide, learn to tie knots, and traverse up and down the fixed ropes together in a team.
We will go up from base camp a few hundred meters and turn left to go up towards High Camp at an altitude of 5,600 meters. Today gives us another opportunity to improve our climbing skills before we head to the island summit tomorrow.
It’s important to also focus on resting and getting adapted to the higher heights. After our practice, we should take some time to recover since we won’t have much sleep tonight.
The ascent of Island Peak is more technically demanding than most people think, but it is not a difficult mountain climb. Only the high altitude and the cold alone take their toll on the lungs and body.
We will rise early at about 2 am, enjoy a light breakfast in our tents, and dress in warm clothes. After getting our gear ready, we will gather as a group and start our journey to the left side.
The track starts with a piece of gravel and rock which can be characterized as quite easy scrambling. It goes up through a small gorge to a few small bands of rock to emerge on the right side of the gorge. Here, after 4-6 hours, we will reach the transition to the upper part of the mountain and crampon point.
The next section is flatter, but it is a glacier and crevasse area and we will walk tied together in a rope team before going up the 75-meter-high snow and ice ramp, which is a bit steeper. En route, we will walk over the glacier on ladders.
The glacier leads to the 200-meter-high wall, where we will climb with the help of a fixed rope, jumar, and prusik. Finally, we will come up on the fabulously beautiful and exposed summit ridge, which leads the last stretch to the windswept summit. And there’s the world’s most precious view: Baruntse, Makalu, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Cholatse, Everest, Pumori.
We will now slowly descend towards the camp, rest, eat, and again go down to Chhukung.
After the high days at Island Peak, we will finally go back down once more to Dingboche and Pangboche, on to Imja Khola. After a short steel bridge in a small gorge crossing, we will reach Khumbu’s largest green area at Deboche.
We will continue further and the last meters before Tengboche, the path goes steeply up a smooth and clay path until we reach the monastery grounds.
We will pass one more bridge over the Imja Khola and return the same way we came, through Top Danda, Jorsalle, and further to Monjo.
Making our way down, we will weave through Benkar, Phakding, Thadokoshi, Chaurikharka, and Chheplung to reach Lukla.
Today we will say goodbye to the mountains, Everest, Ama Dablam, and not least Island Peak. Early in the morning we will walk to Lukla’s small airport terminal and fly to Kathmandu.
Once back after the weeks in the high mountains, Kathmandu is ready to be experienced. The day is for your own adventures in Kathmandu, where there is, to say the least, plenty to do with sightseeing Patan and Bhaktapur along with shopping and massage, etc.
Today, the journey leads you back home. You will be taken to the airport with enough time for completing the custom formalities before your return flight. As you think about your travels, why not consider planning your next adventure to Mera Peak, Ama Dablam, or Lobuche in 2024 or 2025?
2550 US$
Autumn (time period from September to November) and spring (time period from March to May) are the prime seasons for the Island peak climbing adventure. In autumn, the days are graced with delightful air, where the thermometer scales to 5 to 15 degrees Celsius. The forests ignite with brilliant shades of orange and yellow, offering mesmerizing views of the grand Himalayan peaks.
Spring, on the other hand, opens its arms to climbers, displaying the blooming beauty of the Himalayan flora and mild temperatures that average around 16 to 17 degrees Celsius.
From June to August, summer arrives with monsoon increasing the chances of encountering leeches and mosquitoes. From December to February, the winter coats the whole land in deep snow complicating the experience of staying in a tent.
The captivating expedition of Island Peak climbing involves a trek of approximately 150 kilometers through breathtaking landscapes. This stunning peak is 160 km farther from Kathmandu and 41 km farther from Lukla.
A 137 km air distance to Lukla from Kathmandu will be completed within half an hour. The 6165 m altitude of the Island summit is our maximum altitude while the Island Peak High Camp at 5600 m will be our maximum sleeping site.
During this 17-day expedition, we will trek between 10 to 12 kilometers each day.
Throughout the 17-day Island Peak climbing journey, you will engage in 12 days of hiking, with each day consisting of around 5 to 7 hours of trekking. Our itinerary also includes a crucial acclimatization walk and training session before the day of the summit climb.
The lightest walking day is on day 8, where you will take a short 2-hour hike from Dingboche to Chhukung. Day 11 is your most demanding, as you make the ascent to the summit from the High camp and then trek back down to Chhukung village, a journey that takes around 9 to 10 hours.
With a 2B rating, the Island peak climbing is an intermediate-level expedition that challenges climbers with a combination of extended, easy rocky stretches and areas of delicate ice. The trek includes short rock walls and icy segments that can incline sharply at angles of up to 50°.
Compared to Mera Peak, Island Peak is technically more demanding. To reach the top, climbers must utilize a jumar and a descender, covering around 200 meters along the railings while climbing 150 meters in height.
The peak itself has pointed edges and a quirky shape that in some places, it reflects the Khumbu glacier. There are ladders and railings in place to enhance the safety of the climbers.
Climbers must also be able to go on for 9 to 10 hours on the top day of climbing the summit with the backpack loaded with 6 to 8 kg weight. Thus, good fitness physically is a MUST as participants will stay at a relatively high elevation.
In order to reduce the potential hazards and increase our chances of successfully reaching the summit, our climbing strategy focuses on a slow and steady acclimatization process.
This involves spending a day in Kathmandu and Namche Bazaar to adjust, followed by a gentle acclimatization trek of at least 2 to 3 hours as we approach the summit day. Additionally, training sessions will be conducted at the base camp of Island Peak and high camp.
In Island Peak climbing, previous climbing experience is not a prerequisite, whereas it is an advantage if you have experience from previous mountain hiking or any glacier tours.
You can also be physically and mentally qualified in another way. If you are in doubt about your possible participation in the expedition, due to the nature of the trip, you are welcome to contact us.
Additionally, it must be emphasized that trekkers can easily participate without wanting to climb Island Peak, but want to experience the atmosphere of the expedition and experience a relatively tough and exciting trekking trip in high alpine areas.
Here, we also like to draw your attention to the relatively low oxygen content in the air and the high elevation of course. The time above 5000 to 6000 m is demanding due to the temperature and the low oxygen content.
We organize the Island Peak climbing expedition in the best and safest season, but it can still be really cold at night above 5,000 meters and we risk, as always in the mountains, snow and periods of unstable weather. Therefore, it is vital to clarify that this is an expedition with all that it entails of hardships.
Therefore, this expedition is for those who want to take part in a demanding and challenging journey, where a great deal of independence is required, but also a willingness to create a good shared experience.
The Island Peak climbing corresponds to the Everest base camp trek, but where we instead go to Chhukung, Island Peak base camp, and High Camp.
In other words, you go up to quite high altitudes, and in fact, you basically sleep at almost the same height as the top of Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro.
Therefore, we can only strongly recommend that you train your endurance before the expedition to Island Peak. The physical training can consist of long walks and preferably running and possibly cycling, swimming, or other sports. Please start six months before departure at the latest.
Also, the trek to base camp is classic Himalayan trekking at high altitude, where we will be going for many hours. Here the pace is not decisive, but rather the endurance.
Therefore, engaging in more physically demanding activities is essential. Whether it’s cycling, running, or playing sports like swimming, badminton, basketball, or football, every bit counts.
Running distances of 5 to 10 kilometers can be particularly beneficial, especially when paired with long walks in preparation for your ascent to Island Peak.
As altitude training isn’t something you can achieve at home, your main focus should be on building your endurance.
Our journey to the Island Peak will take us up the southern ridge, a path known for its straightforward access and gentle incline. However, adventurers looking for a tougher experience can also tackle the northern ridge, which presents a more demanding climb.
This route involves traversing glaciers above the Lhotse Shar and Imja Tse that require ice climbing skills and careful crossing around crevasses, steep inclines, and towering seracs. The first successful ascent of this challenging path was achieved by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook, and a small team of Sherpas back in 1958.
You can also pair our Island Peak climbing route with a journey to Everest Base Camp and a climb to Kala Patthar. After you arrive in Dingboche, your journey will continue to Lobuche, the gateway to Everest’s base camp. The following day, you will conquer Kala Patthar before making your way back to Dingboche.
On our Island peak climbing trip, we will fly to Lukla at 2800 m, which is why we reach the heights very quickly. From Lukla, we climb slowly, which means we stay for a long time between 3000 to 4,000 meters, and take rest days as the trip requires.
A mild headache and rapid breathing are completely normal for the first few days at altitude, and have nothing to do with altitude sickness. Our tour guide has good experience with the high mountains and is therefore helpful if you feel unsure.
The best way besides acclimatization to avoid altitude sickness is to drink enough and preferably walk slowly on the trek to base camp. It is also essential to balance your body’s fluids, sugar levels, and electrolytes.
A lack of any of these can lead to troubling signs of altitude sickness, including blurred vision, irritability, muscle spasms, fatigue, and headaches.
So make sure to bring along some salty snacks and dried fruits in addition to your water supply. If you begin to going through any of these conditions, don’t hesitate to notify our climbing guide.
He is well-equipped to handle such situations and can administer Diamox or Ibuprofen as needed. He may also guide you to a lower altitude for improved acclimatization.
Our promise is to provide you with a thorough service for every trip you plan with us, and the Island Peak climbing tour is certainly included.
We will arrange round-trip flights from Lukla to Kathmandu along with the facilitation of private transport to collect you from your hotel and take you to Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), with the same service awaiting your return.
A private four-wheel will be ready to drive you to the Manthali airport for your Lukla flight (in Ramechhap diversion).
In Kathmandu, you will have a pleasant stay in one of the comfortable three-star hotels in the main city center of the capital. You will share a room with fellow travelers which is complete with a private bathroom, hot shower, and Wi-Fi. Into the trek, your night lodging will be in the charming mountain lodges en route.
At both the base camp and High camp, we will supply a tent for your stay. Our team will set the tents for sleeping, latrine and cooking.
When it comes to meals, breakfast is offered in Kathmandu while during the hiking period, we offer full board service, featuring breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with fresh fruits served daily.
Our kitchen crew will handle meal preparations three times a day while you are camping. Any type of beverages are excluded in the pricing for our Island Peak climbing itinerary.
You can select either an eSIM from Ncell or Ntc, or physical SIM cards from these networks for your communication and mobile internet needs, both offering 4G service.
The eSIM can be upgraded and activated online, while for physical SIM cards, you will need to show a copy of your passport along with a photo. Their network covers almost all villages, except at the base camps and summit.
On your journey along the Everest track, you will find free Wi-Fi available in places like Lukla and Namche. In the lodges, you can purchase prepaid cards for Everest Link or Nepal Link to access Wi-Fi easily.
Additionally, these lodges provide charging options for your devices, including power banks, cameras, and mobile phones. Please note that the costs for Wi-Fi and charging are not included in our program cost.
Before setting off on our Island Peak climbing expedition, it’s essential to acquire a climbing permit for Island Peak from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and pay a $500 garbage deposit in Kathmandu.
In addition, we will need to secure a Sagarmatha National Park permit and a local municipality permit for the Khumbu rural municipality in Lukla. Don’t worry about the logistics; our guide will manage all the permits for you, and the fees are included in our Island Peak climbing package.
We will supply you with a climbing rope, ice screw, ice hammer, and snow bar, along with a down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bags, camping tents, and kitchen equipment. You can rent other needed equipment in Thamel, and please ensure you return the down jacket and sleeping bags after the completion of the trip.
We are unable to guarantee that you will receive the climbing permit for Island Peak, as the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) regulates climbing permits for peaks in Nepal to manage the number of climbers and mitigate environmental effects.
If securing a permit for Island Peak is difficult, you may consider attempting the peak in the next season or exploring alternatives such as Lobuche or Mera Peak, which are also trekking/climbing peaks exceeding 6000 meters, like Island Peak.
To undertake any trekking peak in Nepal, individuals must be a minimum of 17 years old.
Absolutely, if you are confident in your mountaineering capabilities, you can successfully undertake Island Peak, Mera Peak, and Lobuche Peak within a single expedition.
It is essential to have travel insurance when planning to climb Island Peak, and you must submit a copy of your insurance policy after securing your trip with us. Additionally, a climbing permit will not be issued to those lacking insurance coverage. We strongly suggest that your policy includes provisions for emergency helicopter rescue, cancellation, and loss of luggage or personal items.
2550 US$
Write a Review